The fresh French researcher talks to Este PAIS as to the reasons he thinks the latest Swiss climber’s ascents out of Shishapangma and you will Annapurna are not all of the it check
Within the 1990, Slovenian mountaineer Tomo Cesen claimed to possess scaled new south face out-of Lhotse, the latest 4th highest mountain global. It was announced a feat actually ever present in Himalayan mountaineering, however, the guy informed which he had no images to show they. In the near future a while later, however, he provided some snapshots – taken out-of other climbers that has attempted to over come which mountain ages earlier.
During the 2015, French specialist Rodolphe Popier managed to let you know another lie-by the fresh Slovenian: photo taken having a beneficial telephoto contact by the a friend out of Cesen’s were not sample during the base camp into the southern face out of Lhotse however, in other places.
Upcoming during the 2017, a research of the Popier with the Ueli Steck’s unicamente Himalayan climbs out of Shishapangma’s Southern Deal with in addition to Annapurna massif verified a suspicion you to the newest Swiss climber had lied regarding the his personal ascents. Within the an interview that have El PAIS, Popier discusses his browse and you will mountaineering’s lax approach to notice-claimed feats.
Rock climbing specialist Rodolphe Popier: ‘I do believe Ueli Steck lied’
Answer: Prior to. In fact, I found myself only capable question your anywhere between 2015 and 2017, which have a face-to-face meeting when you look at the Kathmandu in the autumn away from 2015, and many as an alternative demanding talks glint from inside the 2016. Eberhard Jurgalski out of [climbing site] 8000ers accredited us to perform some Annapurna study in 2016, however in you to definitely circumstances, I ran out of time and energy to chat with Steck because the relationship got already deteriorated adopting the the latter conference. so that the report is actually penned without interview that have him.
Q. The thing that was the newest reaction of the brand new jury of yearly rock climbing award Piolets d’Or once you exhibited your projects into the Steck so you can brand new prize organizers in the 2017?
A beneficial. Lindsay Griffin thought that there was not enough incriminating proof so you can question his phrase. Religious Trommsdorff believed his colleague Yannick Graziani, who’d doubts on the each other ascents shortly after understanding my education. There’s section one of many committee you to definitely gave Ueli Steck the prize into the 2014 for his solamente ascent from Annapurna Southern area [done when you look at the 2013]. Catherine Destivelle and you may Georges Lowe aired the doubts and both congratulated me 3 years later once i displayed might work.
Q. You believe that your own purpose isn’t so you’re able to criminalize Cesen otherwise Steck but to force certain considering the need certainly to query having conclusive evidence of mountaineers’ items?
Good. Just, which had been the true soul away from could work since i have began. Actually, inside 2017 I became linked with the fresh Himalayan Database and you can 8000ers [two institutions one to document climbs throughout the Himalayas], and i also was already collaborating towards the French Alpine Club, plus toward American Alpine Record. It actually was by then clear to me that there is something missing in the way we contacted the trouble regarding discussion screening or related situations, and it’s really problematic one to has an effect on each other mountaineers and establishments. Whenever i demonstrated my personal documents for the 2017, a debate is stimulated, nevertheless is actually very unsatisfactory to see the period away from reflection easily die out. When Steck died for the [Everest’s western top] Nuptse sort of condition quo was attained. Catherine Destivelle received dying threats, I was entitled a myriad of labels towards social networking and you will it absolutely was hinted which i will be drop the new Steck instance in the event the I needed to continue concentrating on the latest Himalayan Databases. On the other hand, in 2018 this new Groupe de Haute Montagne [coordinator of the Piolets d’Or] generated a slightly inexplicable announcement in which it diplomatically ignored the fresh new progress out-of 2017, whenever we had managed to wanted prize candidates to include “enough records of its hobby.”